Black Wall Rescue 8/25/2007

Black Wall Rescue

Bob and I were descending from the top of Black Wall after a run up One Hand Clapping when we saw some rescue vehicles rolling up to the base.

Bob headed down to guide rescue up through the talus and I skirted high to see what was up. To make a very long story very short, the next 3 hours were spent on technical oversight of a climber evacuation ending in helicopter extraction using a diaper harness.

Truckee Fire/Rescue, god bless them, does not have any high-angle rescue experience, and had this climber compounded his femur instead of his tibia he would undoubtedly be dead today.

The climbing team was a shining example of misjudging objective risks and maximizing subjective risks: off-route, belaying from a small loose ledge with no anchor, leader inexperience, team inexperience, choosing a loose route, it goes on and on. As the sticker says, “climbing is dangerous. minimize the risks.”

As a PSA, should the guy in the blue shirt who was trying to run the show when I came up ever read this, one #3 C4 in mank rock is not a rescue-worthy anchor, despite the fact that you’ve “done a lot of climbing, bro”. Feel free to ask around and see what kind of response that gets from the climbing community at large.

More pictures and video available upon request, should anyone from the scene come across this page.

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One thought on “Black Wall Rescue 8/25/2007

  1. “The climbing team was a shining example of misjudging objective risks and maximizing subjective risks: off-route, belaying from a small loose ledge with no anchor, leader inexperience, team inexperience, choosing a loose route, it goes on and on. As the sticker says, “climbing is dangerous. minimize the risks.”

    Yikes.

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